The Mikuni BS32SS carburetor had a 1.3-inch bore size, with a standard idle rpm of 1,150, plus or minus 100 rpm. The fuel level measured at 0.2 inch, plus or minus 0.02 inch, and the float height measured 0.88 inch, plus or minus 0.04 inches.

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It is normal to have some climb in idle rpm as the bike warms. After i shut off the enrichener all the way (choke) and the bike is still cool having just run for a couple of minutes, it will idle around 1000rpm. After it warms up, it will vary from 1200-1400 rpm (give or take)- and there is nothing wrong with that. An idle up around 3000 rpm if everything is adjusted indicates a lean condition from adjustment, air leak or idle circuit passages being dirty. I would turn the idle mixture out to 3.5 turns, make sure there is free play on the throttle cable, good plugs properly gapped, just let it idle to warm, then use the idle air screw to adjust to 1200 rpm. If the idle still climbs too high, then check for air leaks.

If there are none, the carbs need cleaning. BTW- the idle air screw should have a spring on it which will prevent it from loosening, If not, get one.

Also, if it is vibrating loose, the idle will get lower.

Have a website? Want to provide tuning information? Aplikasi stok gudang excel gratis para.

Please do not plagiarize this page - it took years to develop and write and is not based on any other previous work by anybody else. If you want to link to this page on your site, please ask - we are perfectly willing to allow links as long as proper credit is provided. Thanks - Marc Follow steps in order. First, dial in: • - Best Main Jet must be selected before starting step 2 (needle height)! • Select • To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the hardest pull at high rpm. • If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up.

This must be done first - before moving on to the other tuning ranges. • If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when fully warmed up, the main jet is too small. • In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes of hard use! • Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2. Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k) Step 1 ( Best Main Jet) must be selected before starting step 2!

• Select best needle clip position • To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, adjust the needle height, after you have already selected the best main jet. • If the engine pulls better or is smoother at full throttle/5k-7k in a full throttle roll-on starting at.